Into Venice, part two

   Part one, here

     The first thing you notice about Venice is that it is crawling with people. Like ants, they spill across the ancient stones, chattering in languages both familiar and unfamiliar. It seems like a living museum full of all nationalities except its own.  It is a city of tourists and thieves. Everyone is a stranger with a camera. Here, an Indian woman selling sunglasses, over there a waiter with a Russian accent. Where are the Venetians?

            I felt almost like I was at Epcot, it was hard to believe that I was really looking at the Bridge of Sighs, the Doge’s Palace, the Grand Canal. It is hard to believe that Venice exists, even when I’m not there.

            The second realization I had about Venice was the power of the sun. Its blaze annihilated me within moments, fierce and Italian- the sun was oppressive. The force of the heat pushed me straight down into the floating stones of St. Marks Square. I quickly began to see only the color white, as the sunlight bounced and reflected off of the water and stones. You must have an excellent pair of sunglasses when you visit.

            We went on a gondola ride, as every tourist must do. It was pricey- 20 euro per person. We had a large group, so we took up several boats. Our driver was texting on his iphone as we wandered through the city’s canals. It was here that you saw the decaying beauty of Venice. The water laps up onto the buildings and eats at the stone. Venice reminds me of a beautiful, older woman. The inevitable decay only adds to the allure and spellbinding beauty.

 It is impossible to take a bad  photo of the city.

            After our gondola ride, we asked the driver where he would eat. We wanted to try something local, not touristy. When in a tourist destination, walk as far away from the crowds to find your meal. Our driver walked us over to a café where we could not read the menus. Taking a leap of faith, I ordered. My meal was delicious- fried cuttlefish with tomato sauce and sliced polenta on the side.

            After eating, we decided to get lost. If you are going to do anything besides ride a gondola, do this. Walk forward. When you come to any intersection where a decision must be made, take the emptier path. Soon you will find yourself alone in narrow, stone corridors. Sometimes they will dead end in a canal, sometimes lead to a square or a garden. Just wander. Take photos. Stop and listen to the magical silence of a world that survives without the automobile. It is lovely.

            To find the way back to St. Marks Square just do the opposite, go toward the people. All too soon you will be back in the throngs of visitors. We decided to go across the Grand Canal to Santa Maria della Salute. We got lost on that side of the bridge, and then bought a grapefruit gelato, and walked along the edge of the Grand Canal.

            All too soon, our day was over. I felt a little cheated, like I had bought a knock off Gucci bag and was unaware it was a counterfeit. One of my favorite things about traveling is experiencing the culture of a new place- but Venice hides its locals, tucked away down green canals that slowly devour the city.

            Venice is not a place to be seen in one day. She is a romantic lover. She wants you to go slow, to romance her; she isn’t a one-night stand. To get the real Venice experience you should get an apartment, stay a few days, walk the city streets at night.

She leaves me wanting more.
Click here for more beautiful photography from this adventure